Fixing gas bubbles in epoxy and urethane coatings
too often during the first coat of an epoxy seal, bubbles and craters appear as
the floor hardens. Gases like argon and methane can pass though the floor,
causing bubbles to appear in the paint. Often, gases come from chemical
reactions still being produced by the preparatory floor cleaning process. Many
times bubbles can be avoided by doing two thorough scrub rinses. Pressure
washing and other rinse techniques don't penetrate deeply enough into the porous
surface to keep reactions from happening. We've also seen gases being sucked
into the room through the floor by the heating system or by natural airflow. We
prescribe, here, a simple, effective solution for repairing these defects.
Many times just screening the floor and putting on another coat will solve the
problem, but not always. That is, even after a second coat, there may be
telltale signs of bubbling. Before re-coating, look closely at one of the
bubbles. Remove any skin from the top of the bubble and see if there is a small
hole at the bottom of the crater. This small hole is a sign that something is
blowing through the hole, causing the bubble. Usually, screening off the tops of
those bubbles will clog the hole at the bottom. As a result, no bubbles will
form during the second coat. But for extreme cases, and for a positive cure, use
glazing compound to fill each hole before doing your next coat. While this
sounds like a big job, in fact you and a helper can fill a 1200 sq. ft. floor in
about an hour.
Here are the steps for positive repair and concealment of your cratering
problems. First, use a rotary scrubber and pad with a 60-grit screen to quickly
go over the floor, shaving off any bubble tops and thereby flattening the floor.
Next, sweep up the screening dust. Then put on those kneepads and, using a tooth
paste-style tube of glazing compound and a putty knife, start filling. After all
the problem craters are filled, screen again. A good second screening can be
done as soon as you are finished filling. This screening will quickly remove
excess glaze and blend each hole flat. Sweep again and then coat the floor.
With this extra hour of work you can be sure that the holes are all permanently
filled and with no holes remaining in the floor, there should not be any new
bubbles or craters. Make sure that when you mix your floor coating you donít
whip air into the mixture. Use a hand paddle for about 200 strokes then let the
mixture sit for 20 minutes before using it, pot life permitting. If you suspect
that your roller cover is pushing air into your product, use a mohair-style
roller cover and pour the product on the floor; donít dip the roller into it.
Having the room temperature near 70 degrees and preventing wind and hot or cool
spots is also helpful.
For a detailed quote of materials needed to accomplish these repairs, please
visit our free cost analysis page at
For more information, contact Chris Biesanz
at firstname.lastname@example.org or phone 1-800-466-8910 or 952-888-1488
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